SA Shines in Wine Spectator… up to a point

Neil Pendock June 23, 2013 12

SA stars in the July edition of Wine Spectator – incredibly, the first ever cover story on SA and its wines – but unfortunately there seems to be a shortage of fact checkers and sub-editors in New York and the lead article by lead taster James Molesworth contains some schoolboy howlers you’d not expect from Marvin Shanken’s well-lubricated machine. James notes that Stellenbosch has taken over from Franschhoek as “culinary capital of the Winelands” and comments “the cuisine draws from local ingredients – meats such as Springbok or Namibian beef as well as seafood such as crayfish and kingfish” (below).

kf

Does James realize that Namibia is pretty far from Nietvoorbij or that kingfish is more illegal than marijuana in SA? So I wonder what James was smoking when he wrote the story. The SA Sustainable Seafood Initiative reports “there are 54 species of kingfish known in South African waters, many are important game and trophy fish. Spawning of most species does not occur in South Africa but off tropical East Africa. All kingish species are Red-listed no-sale species, this means that it is illegal to sell or buy these species anywhere in South Africa” including Stellenbosch.

Is this another tsunami in a spittoon? Does it matter and are the tasting notes so cavalierly written? Let’s hope not but rather hope the hordes of American tourists destined for Stellenbosch on the strength of this story will enjoy organic grass-fed beef from Spier – or better yet Karoo lamb – and kingklip, which is back on the SASSI green list.

PS 28/6 It has be pointed out that kingklip, while under review, remains on the SASSI Orange List so sustainable Speccie readers should stick with snoek. In which case, Kanonkop is worth a visit as owner Johann Krige does the best snoek braai in the Cape.

12 Comments »

  1. Elias June 23, 2013 at 10:05 am -

    Just for once you can maybe celebrate with the winelands instead searching for something wrong? Just wondering.

  2. Elias June 23, 2013 at 10:05 am -

    Just for once you can maybe celebrate with the winelands instead searching for something wrong? Just wondering.

  3. Neil Pendock June 23, 2013 at 10:13 am -

    Hi Elias

    Missed opportunities. It could have been so much better…

  4. Neil Pendock June 23, 2013 at 10:13 am -

    Hi Elias

    Missed opportunities. It could have been so much better…

  5. Johan June 23, 2013 at 1:07 pm -

    Have you see the WS readers travel with the magazine like a Lonely Planet guide book. In this case the shortsighted leading the blind. What restaurants in S bos has passed le Quartier, Pierneef and Babylonstoren? You are right missed opportunities…..

  6. Johan June 23, 2013 at 1:07 pm -

    Have you see the WS readers travel with the magazine like a Lonely Planet guide book. In this case the shortsighted leading the blind. What restaurants in S bos has passed le Quartier, Pierneef and Babylonstoren? You are right missed opportunities…..

  7. Johann Rupert June 23, 2013 at 2:51 pm -

    Did not expect such small-minded bitchiness from you Neil. So he called a Kingklip a “Kingfish” – why can no South African journo/critic ever rejoice in anything good from abroad?

  8. Johann Rupert June 23, 2013 at 2:51 pm -

    Did not expect such small-minded bitchiness from you Neil. So he called a Kingklip a “Kingfish” – why can no South African journo/critic ever rejoice in anything good from abroad?

  9. Fanny Cradock June 24, 2013 at 10:41 pm -

    Dear Mr Pendock,

    Speaking as an objective reader…. I do like your attention to detail… if Mr Mole doesn’t know his crabs from his cod piece, we will all end up sleeping with the fishes.

    I fear that standards of modern wine journalism have slipped well down the mizzenmast and this type of sloppiness should be singled out – especially when it emanates from Marvellous Marvin’s Wine Speculator… a journal on whose literary merits I am most definitely not ‘100 Points’….

    As my dear late Johnny used to say, never trust a man who is circumcised and wears brightly checked trousers…

    Love and kisses, Fanny

  10. Fanny Cradock June 24, 2013 at 10:41 pm -

    Dear Mr Pendock,

    Speaking as an objective reader…. I do like your attention to detail… if Mr Mole doesn’t know his crabs from his cod piece, we will all end up sleeping with the fishes.

    I fear that standards of modern wine journalism have slipped well down the mizzenmast and this type of sloppiness should be singled out – especially when it emanates from Marvellous Marvin’s Wine Speculator… a journal on whose literary merits I am most definitely not ‘100 Points’….

    As my dear late Johnny used to say, never trust a man who is circumcised and wears brightly checked trousers…

    Love and kisses, Fanny

  11. Dawid June 26, 2013 at 9:07 am -

    Ag Ja, welcome to SA everyone. Pig out on the Kingfish and maybe try a bit of caged hunting or even Rhino poaching with the Thai hookers. Just bring dollars and remember to pat us on the head before you leave.

  12. Dawid June 26, 2013 at 9:07 am -

    Ag Ja, welcome to SA everyone. Pig out on the Kingfish and maybe try a bit of caged hunting or even Rhino poaching with the Thai hookers. Just bring dollars and remember to pat us on the head before you leave.

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