Christmas has come early for Analjit Singh, the Sikh behind the Mullineux Swartland wine machine. The only SA pick in the laundry list of Jancis Robinson, the go-to wine barker for the Weekend Financial Times, is Singh’s sweetie:
Mullineux, Chenin Blanc Straw Wine 2012 Swartland
Pale tawny. Plump, round and peachy. There is so much intensity, complexity and rich nutty flavours – but masses of acidity too. 10%
£21.95 (37.5cl) Berry Bros
This at least is one Swartland stunner not made at the Swartland Co-op. Although how ironic that the only sweet listing from SA, a country that for generations has been famous for its sweet wines, should be made by an American for an Indian. But then, both America and India were British colonies at one time, so that the organ of Empire should choose them, comes as no surprise.
Alas and alack for SA reds though. For in spite of the formation of the Cape Vintners Classification, La Robinson chose nary a single SA red for her Xmas stocking. Let’s hope the hefty entry fee (R16K according to some, R15K according to Xtain Eedes) gets deployed into marketing. A small ad in the FT, perhaps?
And hats off to Zakkie Bester from Riebeek Cellars for asking the Wine and Spirit Board to forbid bulk exporters from labelling their juice “wine of origin, Swartland.” For with the appellation rocked by revelations about where boutique winery juice is really made, customers need reassurance that they’re not drinking expensive plonk. Paardeberg Plonk – now there’s a brand for Vinimark to retail.