While SA Chenin producers complain loudly “we wuz robbed” by the French judges at last week’s Taj Classic Wine Trophy show which rewarded five Chardonnays but only a single Chenin if you discount the delicious Rudera noble Chenin sticky (there was unlikely to have been a botrytis Chardonnay entry), the focus moves to Classic Food. Which in our case means boerekos now that restaurateurs queue up to be shown the Waterfront premises of Moyo which seems to have fallen off the financial gravy train.
Who will wave the banner for boerekos now that that long standing institution Emily’s has closed down? Step forward Emily’s on Kloof Street in a converted schoolhouse opposite the Lifestyle Centre. Peter Veldsman (above) has forgotten more about boerekos than many thrusting young entrepreneurs have yet to learn while chef Johan Odendaal makes a pickled fish from yellowtail wat skrik vir niks.
We share a healthy aversion to whales of all descriptions which is a handy attitude to have in an industry terrorized by a killer whale blogger, detectable at ten paces by disgusting cabbage farts, according to sources at World Design Capital 2014.
We kicked off with a Klein Karoo Muscadel over crushed ice as aperitif. Served in a Martini glass with one of those twists of lemon that made the first Beverly Hills Cop flick memorable. With the lamb bobotie (below, pronounced in the KZN style “booberty”) we started off on Alex Dale‘s new low sulphur Syrah (below) called Nudity 2012 but eventually followed the master’s advice and switched to a 2011 Thelema Riesling with the subtle residual sugar echoing the opulent stewed dried fruit flavours in the dish. Dried fruit being the only available veggie in a Karoo as Annatjie Melck reminds us. Although how does Johan get his own veggies so small and tasty?
Nudity contains no added sulphur which is great if you’re Japanese or suffer from allergies, although the grapes hail from the Voor-Paardeberg while I’m reliably informed that nudism is more common on the other side of the mountain which has been renamed the Partyberg. When Wiggo Andersen, the Norwegian nudist and friend of that Swartland pioneer Chas Back invited us to his Wedgewood Guest Farm some years ago, we enquired as to the dress code expected. “Optional” was the reply.
Now that Wiggo has returned to the land of the midnight sun, local labourers wait in vain, hidden in the reeds of the farm dam, for a glimpse of Norwegian nudists and whales, a great dining delicacy up north. Our own experience was thankfully whale free and remarkably good value for money. Perhaps the benign influence of being located on church property had chased the demon of Mammon back to his ATM, but what a pleasure to dine without foams and not a jus in sight. Just Peter’s 10 month old garden, which is starting to shape up as a suburban Eden without the snakes.